Wednesday, April 11, 2018

Ultimate One Day Angkor Guide: The Best of Angkor

Stretching over some 400 square kilometers, even dwarfing the city of Siem Reap, Angkor Archaeological Park cannot be covered in its entirety during just one trip. Most guides recommend at least a 3-day itinerary to get the most out of the park's iconic temples. But what if you are pushed for time, is it possible to do it in one? The answer is YES.
Lotus bud shaped tower of Angkor Wat
The steep stairs leading to a lotus bud shaped tower
of Angkor Wat
We only had a day to see the temples of Angkor, so we planned, got recommendations from our driver, and put together an itinerary to visit the main sites and even avoid the worst of the crowds. 

Tickets to Angkor
For foreigners to enter Angkor Archaeological Park, an entrance ticket needs to be purchased as either One Day, Three Day or Seven Day Passes. The rates since February 2017 are USD37, USD62, and USD72 respectively.

The One Day Angkor Pass can only be purchased within the same day of your visit or the day before at 5:00PM. If you do the second option, you can already go into the park after purchasing the pass to watch the sunset from the temples. But this would cost an extra tuk tuk ride. 


The passes are exclusively issued by Angkor Enterprise located along Street 60, Krong Siem Reap. The Ticket Center is open from 5:00AM to 5:30PM daily. Cash and credit card payments are accepted. For more information, please visit the website here.

Small and Grand Circuit

There are two usual types of Angkor tours named after the groupings of the temples - the small and the grand (or big) circuit tours. 

The small circuit is a 17-kilometer discovery tour of the famous temples of Angkor which includes Angkor Wat, the ancient capital of Angkor Thom, and the sites east of Angkor Thom such as Ta Keo, Ta Phrom, Batneay Kdei, and Phnom Bakheng. This circuit tour would normally take 6 to 8 hours to complete.
Small Circuit of Angkor
The Small Circuit route highlighted in yellow
The grand circuit is a 26-kilometer discovery tour of the major sites north and further east of Angkor Thom. It includes Angkor Wat, the ancient capital of Angkor Thom, Preah Khan, Neak Pean, Ta Som, East Mebon, Pre Rup, Ta Phrom, Banteay Kdei, and Sras Srang. This circuit takes 10-12 hours to complete.
Grand Circuit of Angkor
The Grand Circuit covers a larger area
Aside from these popular tours, there is also a tour of the Roluos group of temples located 15 kilometers east of Siem Reap and a tour of the outlying temples located more than 20 kilometers from Angkor Wat.

You can mix and match freely but it's better to plan ahead and pick sites that are nearer each other.


Getting Around Angkor

There are various options to get around the Angkor Archaeological Park - by bicycle, motorcycle taxi, tuk tuk, or car.

For our tour, we booked via a small travel company named Angkor Tuk Tuk Travel. We started inquiring with them via email two weeks before our trip. Pin Ton was our main contact through email and he was also our driver. We provided him a list of temples we wanted to visit and informed him that we wanted to avoid the crowd. Since most of our preferred temples were part of the big circuit group, we paid the price of the big circuit tour and topped up for the Angkor Wat sunrise. Total amount we paid was USD23. 


We highly recommend him as he was punctual, polite, and was always ready to offer refreshments whenever we returned to our tuk tuk. He also recommended a sequence of temples where we'll avoid the big tour groups. For more reviews about Angkor Tuk Tuk Travel, visit their TripAdvisor page here. For bookings, email info@angkortuktuktravel.com.

Angkor Tuk Tuk Travel
Pin Ton of Angkor Tuk Tuk Travel
If you're planning to visit Angkor Wat for a day, here's our schedule that you can follow:

Stop #1: Sunrise at Angkor Wat

Be ready to get up early because your driver will pick you up from your hotel at 4:30AM to purchase your passes (if you have not done so yet) and catch the sunrise at around 6:00AM. 

Watching the sunrise at Angkor Wat and soaking up the early morning atmosphere is one of must-do things when in Cambodia. Most people rave about it being a spectacle and an iconic travel experience. But because of this popularity, Angkor Wat can get really crowded in the morning as people scramble for a spot to see the sunrise. 


When we got inside, there was already a sizeable crowd gathered at the left pond facing the temple - claimed to be the best spot to witness the sunrise. Since there were only about 20 people at the right pond, we decided to get our spot there to wait for the sunrise. We waited until 6:10AM but since it was drizzling prior to our arrival, clouds covered the sky and we thought we will not see the sun shine through for that beautiful sunrise photograph.

Angkor Wat
The magnificent and incomparable Angkor Wat
The inner gallery of Angkor Wat
The inner gallery of Angkor Wat
Angkor Wat symbolizing Mount Meru
The five towers of Angkor Wat symbolizes the mountain of the gods,
Mount Meru
As soon as it was bright enough, we walked up to the temple to check it out. Big tour groups leave Angkor Wat after sunrise to have breakfast at their hotels and return late in the morning, so this is a good time to explore the site without the hordes of people. And a smaller crowd makes plenty of great photo opportunities.  
Prayers in Angkor Wat
Explore at an earlier time to avoid the crowd and enjoy peace inside the temple
Angkor Wat Bas Reliefs
The extensive bas reliefs of Angkor Wat depicting scenes from the epics
Mahabharata and Ramayana
Angkor Wat Bas Reliefs
Here is the army of Suryavarman II
When we were about to leave, we noticed that people had cleared out by the ponds and that the sun has already made an appearance. We were lucky enough to take a photo before the sun disappeared again behind the clouds.
Sunrise at Angkor Wat
Perfect timing when the sun made a short appearance
Read: Seeing Angkor Wat for the First Time

Stop #2: Ta Phrom
Ta Phrom is one of the most popular and most photographed temple in Angkor, thanks to its scene stealing role in the movie Tomb Raider. Ta Phrom is in much the same condition as when it was rediscovered - photogenic, atmospheric, and mysterious. Trees growing and snaking across the ancient stone walls are the most distinctive feature of this temple. 
Ta Phrom
The Tomb Raider temple
Ta Phrom
Trees snaking across the structures are common scenes inside Ta Phrom
Ta Phrom
A newly restored section of Ta Phrom 
There are current restoration works being done at Ta Phrom, so visitors will come across wooden walkways, platforms, and roped railings to protect the site from further damages. 

Pin Ton suggested that we get here early to beat the crowds. We arrived at the temple 30 minutes after its opening, so the crowd was minimal at that time.
The atmospheric and mysterious Ta Phrom
Atmospheric and mysterious defines Ta Phrom
Roots taking over Ta Phrom
One of the most popular photo spots in the temple,
make sure to visit early to avoid the worst crowds
Ta Phrom tower sanctuary
A beautiful but lone tower sanctuary
Stegosaurus in Ta Phrom
Look out for the supposed carving of a Stegosaurus
in the walls of Ta Phrom (left middle side)
Read: Going Inside Ta Phrom Where Nature Has Taken Over

Stop #3: Pre Rup 
Pre Rup is a stunning state temple that predates the Angkor Wat. It is made of a combination of materials such as brick, laterite, and sandstone. The romantic reddish hues of these materials are best seen early in the morning or when the sun is setting, making Pre Rup a popular alternative for sunset viewing. 
The romantic reddish hues of Pre Rup
The temple pyramid in romantic reddish hues
Pre Rup tower
The central tower of the pyramid with its stairway
guarded by lions
Another reason why people visit this temple is its mysterious history. Theories suggest that it was an ancient crematorium. Pre Rup literally means "turn the body" in Khmer language which could have been based on the ritual rotation of the body and ashes throughout a funeral. But there is no concrete evidence that Pre Rup was the scene for such rituals. It still remains as an ancient Angkor mystery. 
View from the top of Pre Rup
The ruins hold the secret of Pre Rup's purpose
Stop #4: Ta Som
Ta Som is the most distant temple in the grand circuit. Although smaller than Ta Phrom, many of its carvings are in good condition. The most impressive feature of the temple is the large Ficus tree that has enveloped the eastern gopura or gate tower. It is a photo classic and one of the popular spots in Angkor. 
The gopura of Ta Som
The gate tower of Ta Som enveloped by a large tree
Stop #5: Neak Pean 
Neak Pean, believed to represent the mythical lake Anavatapta in the Himalayas, is a unique and interesting site. Unlike the overpowering and tall structures of the other temples, Neak Pean is a man-made pond with a small circular island temple in the middle. The base of the temple is encircled by two encoiled nagas or serpent deities. There are also four surrounding smaller ponds in the site representing the elements of water, earth, wind, and fire. Neak Pean was used as a Khmer spa where people bathe to regain their natural balance with nature.

You'll enter the temple by walking on a long wooden walkway over the Jayatataka Baray and a backdrop of otherworldly scene of still waters and petrified trees.
Jayatataka Baray
You''ll be welcomed by still waters and petrified trees at Neak Pean
Neak Pean
The small circular island temple in the middle of Neak Pean
Stop #6: Preah Khan
Preah Khan got its name from a belief that the sword of King Jayavarman VII was kept hidden inside the temple. There's probably some basis to it. After all, the temple was built on the site where the king defeated the invading Cham soldiers.

Preah Khan, during its day, owned precious gold, gems, and pearls, enshrined hundreds of statues, and required almost 100,000 attendants. Now, it is still impressive as a huge labyrinth of old trees, quiet chambers, narrow passages, and photo opportunities. Yet somehow, Preah Khan is overshadowed by other temples. 
The beautiful buildings of Preah Khan
Looking strangely enough like a Greek temple,
this is the only one of its kind in Angkor
With its fewer visitors and larger size, Preah Khan is definitely worth a visit. Here, you'll surely feel like an explorer picking your way through a beautiful mix of debris, intricate carvings, and noteworthy buildings.
The beautiful ruins of Preah Khan
Truly a beautiful mix of ruins
The intricate carvings of Preah Khan
Intricate carvings on the walls
The intricate carvings of Preah Khan
Intricate carvings on the gates
Stop #7: Angkor Thom
The final site we visited was Angkor Thom. This seems fitting for the last and most enduring capital of the Khmer Empire. Angkor Thom is not a temple but a city measuring 3 kilometers long on each of its four sides. It is surrounded by 8-meter high walls and a moat up to 100 meters wide. 

Within the walled city are a number of significant temples which include the Baphuon, Phimeanakas, and the Elephant Terrace. The centerpiece of the city is one of the most recognizable temples in Angkor, the magnificent Bayon. Its most distinguishing feature is the 216 serene and massive stone faces adorning its towers. Read: Bayon Temple: Face to Face with Giants
The centerpiece Bayon
The centerpiece of the city is Bayon
The centerpiece Bayon
Debris laid out for future restorations
The faces of Bayon
The serene and giant stone faces of Bayon
Summary of the Itinerary
Here's a quick view of our Angkor itinerary:
Time
Site
4:30AM
Pick up at the Hotel
5:00AM - 5:20AM
Purchase of Tickets
5:35AM - 7:30AM
Angkor Wat
7:45AM - 9:00AM
Ta Phrom
9:10AM - 9:45AM
Pre Rup
10:00AM - 10:30AM
Ta Som
10:45AM - 11:15AM
Neak Pean
11:15AM - 12:15PM
Lunch
12:30PM - 1:45PM
Preah Khan
2:00PM - 2:30PM
Baphuon
2:40PM - 3:20PM
Bayon
4:00PM
Back at the Hotel

Final Tips
Here are additional tips to help you ace your tour of Angkor:
  • Guides are optional. You can hire one to help you get oriented with the temples particularly the history and the most interesting scenes inside.
  • If you did not get the services of a tour guide just like us, read about the sites in advance to enjoy them.
  • If not interested, politely decline for any offers inside. This include offers for guides, souvenirs, or incense. Otherwise, agree on a price at the start to avoid getting scammed.
  • Always ask your driver which exit he'll wait for you and note it down. Most temples have several gates which could disorient you and inadvertently waste your time looking for your driver. 
  • Angkor is hot and humid. Bring sunblock and keep yourself well hydrated. Check if your service provides unlimited bottled water and bring one every time you go inside a temple. You can't tell how long you will stay inside.
  • The temples are considered holy sites for Cambodians so dress appropriately. Make sure to wear clothes that cover the knees and shoulders (scarves and wraps are not considered). A few sites may also not allow hats.  
  • Be careful with wild monkeys. Avoid feeding or approaching them.
  • Food prices are inflated within Angkor. You can bring your own food for breakfast if you are seeing the sunrise. For lunch, most tuk tuks would stop in restaurants near the temples. Check with your driver beforehand if you have other restaurants in mind.
Buddhist statues in Angkor
Some temples in Angkor are active religious sites
After your visit, you'll surely feel you just had an extraordinary experience. 

So this is our ultimate guide to exploring Angkor for one day. If you have questions, please ask us in the comment section below. 

Want to know more about our trip to Siem Reap, check out the following posts:

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