Juan Trip At A Time: Going Inside Ta Phrom Where Nature Has Taken Over

If you fancy yourself as Indiana Jones or Lara Croft, then you can't go to Siem Reap and not see Ta Phrom.

Nearly 830 years ago, almost 80,000 people called this temple and its surrounding area home. Now, it sits empty and centuries of neglect have made it host to vegetation on the roofs and in the walls.

Located amid the forest north of the Great Lake Tonle Sap in present-day Cambodia, Ta Phrom was a thriving monastery and center of learning called Rajavihara from the 12th to the 15th century. An inscription in one of its stone foundations records that it took 79,365 people to maintain the temple including 18 priests and 615 dancers. It also records that the temple owned considerable riches including more than 500 kilograms of gold, more than 40,000 pearls, and more than 4,500 precious stones and diamonds. It must have been very impressive in its day!

But as was the case with many temples of Angkor, the site was mysteriously abandoned. It was only rediscovered in 1860 and was selected to be preserved, leaving it in much the same condition in which it was found. Exactly the main reason why in 2000, Ta Phrom was used as a location for the blockbuster film, Tomb Raider.

We initially planned on visiting Ta Phrom late in the afternoon but our driver Pin Ton suggested we visit the temple early in the morning to avoid the crowds. As we have done little reading about it before the trip, we didn't have much expectations of the temple. But it came as a complete surprise. Roaming around its ruins, we came into various realizations. Ta Phrom is a photography hotspot because of its unique beauty and mystical ambiance. What's more, we come to recognize that nature is quick to move in and retakes what used to be hers. It is alive and moving. It is unlike man-made structures that are stationary and crumble over time. And quite a scary thought, Ta Phrom seemingly represents what the world will look like once humans are gone.

Here's a look at Ta Phrom's ruins. Let these photos invite you to imagine how life was in the temple before its abandonment.

The Hall of Dancers as seen from the east entrance,
a tree has grown in the middle of the platform where dancers once performed

A collapsed building right after the east entrance

The most distinctive feature of Ta Phrom are the trees growing out of the ruins

And trunks soaring skywards

Intricate wall bas reliefs

A pile of rubble, demonstrating the vulnerability
of man's works

Another tree's massive roots tightly round a broken roof

Doors and hallways leading to inner enclosures

An interplay of man-made structures and nature's works make Ta Phrom popular

A beautiful state of ruin and mess

Beautifully sculpted walls

A tree peeking through a hole in the roof

A huge tree laying claim to a tower

Some of the spaces that have been cleared for visitor paths,
perfect for some photo opportunities

Roots have wound themselves in the walls and trailed the ground

Every side of the temple's towers and walls
are elaborately decorated

Here are Apsara carvings, among the most common
bas relief subjects in Angkor

More doors and hallways leading to inner enclosures,
admire the laboriously carved and sculpted door frames

A sole tower within the inner enclosures

Left side view of the second enclosure from the west causeway

The restored causeway in the west entrance

Right side view of the second enclosure from the west causeway

Roots running along the gallery of the second enclosure,
one of the most popular photo spots in the temple

Metal supports installed to strengthen the structures
and prevent further deterioration

Ruins block some galleries making them inaccessible
and giving the temple a haunted and strange charm

Collapsed walls of the second enclosure

It's a mystery how these ruins would have looked like in its day

Deep contrasts between sunlight and shadows

The central sanctuary is atmospheric, the shadows
give you the feeling of discovering a lost temple

The third enclosure gallery, its arches and columns
carefully restored

A once intricate bas relief in the galleries of the temple worn away by nature

The restored third enclosure gallery in the east

More ruins of the outer enclosures

Stones lie scattered around like lego blocks waiting to be assembled

If you do get a chance to visit Ta Phrom, here are some useful tips:

1. Some areas of Ta Phrom are impassable and others are accessible only through narrow passages. Follow the plan route and signage to avoid getting lost.

2. Ta Phrom can be quite crowded during mid-day when tour groups swarm the place. Arrive early to enjoy its serenity and beauty, and to find many photo opportunities.

3. The southern area of the temple is a less frequented place. You can take lots of photos here and enjoy the atmosphere.

4. Walkways, platforms, and roped railings have been set up in some areas to protect the temple from further deterioration. Avoid going over these barriers for your safety.

5. Do some reading about the temple before your visit. It helps if you know some of its history and architectural highlights.

6. Look out for small details that are usually missed by most tourists. There is the mysterious carving that resembles a stegosaurus and a face carving enveloped by a tree.